Getting hot and pricey at Devi

The authentic Indian experience began at the front door, where a kind Hindu host graciously greeted his newly arrived guests.

At 7 p.m. on a Monday night, only one other table in the small restaurant was occupied – a couple sat near the wide bay window looking out onto the bright lights of Montreal’s Crescent Street.

Overall, the ambiance was romantic; the place was dimly-lit by glass lanterns that hung from the high ceiling, providing a warm, golden glow, while soft Indian background music tastefully filled the colourful interior; carved wood mouldings complemented the pale wallpaper and tangerine carpet, altogether brilliantly emphasizing the elegant and exotic atmosphere. But the cherry on top was without a doubt the giant Buddha near the bar.

Our party was lead to a quaint section of the room near the back wall, against which a dark wooden bench adorned with comfortable purple fabric pillows was fixed.

Once seated, the waiter’s concern with whether our party of five was going to require separate bills became irritating, not to mention his pointing to each of us and rudely identifying us as numbers one to five. I was number four.

It would have also been greatly appreciated if he had filled our glasses with water (which was much needed) without having to be begged constantly. However, aside from the irritating service, the experience was a good one.

There was a long list of appetizers, each more seemingly exquisite than the next: different marinades of chicken and lamb skewers (kebab), shrimp and crab cakes, fresh mushrooms, potato-stuffed patties, chutney and chickpeas, and a “must try” section presenting the chef’s unpronounceable Indian specialties (achari paneer tikka, Manchurian cauliflower, and kararee bhindi). Finally, a small medley of soup, salad, plain rice dishes, and breads concludes the appetizers.

The naan garlic bread is a must. In fact, it would be wise to order it before choosing your main dish– it leaves you less delirious with hunger, and its pita topped with hot, melted cheese and garlic is utterly satisfying. One basket of naan includes three large triangular slices.

The larger appetizers (i.e. lamb and chicken skewers, shrimp, etc.) range from $6 to $12 and the smaller dishes of rice, breads, soups and salads are an average of $5 each. However, the vegetarian lamb/chicken biryanis (spicy, rice-based mixtures) cost between $14 and $19.

A heavenly choice for a solid appetizer is seekh kebab, otherwise known as minced lamb kebab, flavoured with spices. None too spicy (just enough), its tender meat is cooked to perfection. The appetizer’s portions, however, are quite disappointing.

The entrées consist of an assortment of lamb, chicken, vegetable, fish, and seafood dishes cooked in either a tandoori oven or with a selection of exotic Indian sauces and spices. For the less intrepid customer, there are also more conventional seasonings: cream and yogurt sauces, garlic and coconut flavors, onion sautés, tomato flavours, ginger and paprika spicing, and the simple and always reliable gravy.

Our table ordered four different types of dishes: butter chicken, korma, kadai chicken, and lamb saagwala. Each choice of meal arrives in a small bowl filled with pieces of the selected meat, enough to go around.

The entrée platters are pricey considering they exclude any sides; a bowl of the selected meat or fish will range from $18 to $25. The butter chicken was drowned in a delicious creamy tomato sauce, lightly spiced compared to the much too hot kadai chicken – which was like swallowing a jar of bell peppers. Korma was the night’s favourite, the slices of moist chicken refreshing in its mild cream sauce, and also a pleasant break from the rest of the fiery foods. Lastly, the lamb saagwala sautéed with spinach and spices was succulent and superb:, it should be underneath the menu’s “must have” section.

The choice of wines is minimal and the price is exaggerated. It is also truthfully a terrible combination with such flavourful foods.

Devi ended up being a pricey choice for a casual dining experience; once the bread, rice, drinks, appetizers and entrées have been selected, the average price per person can reach approximately $50.

However, in all, it is a restaurant worthy of a night spent, perhaps to celebrate a special occasion. Devi promises a relaxed evening, luxurious tasting foods, and certainly an authentic taste of Indian culture.

 

Devi is located on 1450 Crescent St. between de Maisonneuve and Ste-Catherine.

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