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There’s no room for gender labels on the runway

Montreal Fashion Week started on a high note with Pedram Karimi, a Montreal designer who is well respected by the fashion community. While many are anxious to get in with the new vibrant spring clothing, Karimi’s futuristic flair makes a good case for this bitter winter weather all year round.

Karimi’s Galactic Wet Dreams collection involved practicality and large silhouettes for women and men who are bold enough to play off his architectural, artistic pieces. Montreal Fashion week. (Photo Maddy Hajek)

The ‘wet’ look is what Karimi was aiming for and everything tied in nicely with the offbeat theme; the design of the runway show, the models, the evolution from whites to greys to blacks and the ending of the show with a seafoam pastel green and a splash of red and silver.

For Karimi, the best part of conceptualizing his designs for the Galactic Wet Dreams collection was “finding fabrics that could translate the way [he] hoped they would.”
And he did just that. His collection had that somewhat sporty vibe to it like his previous collections, but this time it was all about the layering, the plunging necklines, and the turtlenecks. Karimi’s overlaying involved ponchos on top of long sleeves, shorts and leggings—keeping the oversized and futuristic style in mind. His clean lines and soft aesthetic, through textiles of laser quilted nylon, polyurethane, spandex jersey, crushed silk and velvet, made the genderless look the focal point of the show.

“I hope both men and women can have fun with the pieces I’ve created and wear them as they please and I hope that I can make a difference that goes beyond just clothing,” said Karimi.

Karimi was born in Iran and later moved to Austria in his teens. He began his fashion studies at London College of Fashion and then graduated from LaSalle College in Montreal. Karimi is known for his minimalist approach and clean aesthetic. He is devoted to his past and the different cultures he has been exposed to, inspiring the concepts and unconventional fabrics of his collections.

“My designs are a product of my current and previous surroundings, my upbringing and the picture of the future that I fantasize about,” said Karimi.

His presentation dizzied us up from the beginning when a fashion film, the first in a series presented by Triptyque, was showcased on the runway screen. The room was dark, with nothing but the lights from the short video and flashing cameras. The film presented the gender confusion theme of the collection and featured a girl transforming into a boy when she emerged from a pool of water. From that moment, we knew we were in for an unconventional and eccentric show.

There was fog everywhere and the models evoked such serious and powerful emotions, setting the tone for Karimi’s monochromatic, uni-sex and genderless pieces. The industrial and haunting music was perfectly fitting for the collection’s colour palette of grey, beige, white and black, along with the angular and architectural shapes and cuts. From the patent leather caps to the wet, slicked-back hair to the platform tennis shoes, there were moments where there was no distinction between the men and women on the runway.

“Fashion has always been a tool to influence a society for me,” said Karimi. “Hopefully I can continue to make a difference for men and women out there and continuously interact with them.”

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Reliving the ‘70s with Symbiose by hinda A.

If you were impatiently waiting for a new fashion trend to boost your look, you will be disappointed. It seems that last year’s colour-blocking – stacking vibrant colors one atop another – is a style that is back on the fashion agenda and appears to be here for the long

The entire collection is entirely made in Canada and will be exclusively available in September in the Symbiose by hinda A. store located on 227 St. Paul St. in Old Montreal.

haul. Hinda A., the head designer of Symbiose by hinda A., brought her vibrant fall/winter 2013 collection to the Arsenal on Tuesday, Feb. 5. Kicking off the show with the bouncy tune “Punch His Face” by Skepta, the audience was lured into a pop-posh party surrounded by models dressed in candy-colored pieces. “I was inspired by the ‘70s pop art and flashy colours,” said Hinda. “I was looking around and doing research, and then I saw this picture from Milton Glaser who is a graphic designer from the ‘70s best known for his ‘I love New York’ logo.” Hinda astonished the audience by her ability to turn colourful fabrics in pink, mauve and vivid azure into silhouette-friendly dresses with architectural details. The line also sported elegant buttoned shirts worn with skirts and bright stockings, and oversized coats that looked ever so warm and snuggly. The only downer, or shall I say disaster, was a long dress made up of a pearl pink silk skirt and a fuchsia velvet top worn with purple tights and silver sandals. The fall/winter 2013 collection featured different kinds of fabrics from linen to silk to velvet. Hinda was very careful with her choice of fabrics, as one of the most important things she strives for is customer satisfaction and comfort. “I used a lot of natural fabrics because I want people to feel comfortable in my clothes,” explained Hinda. “They are also good for the environment and that is very important for me. I also used cotton because it is good for spring, summer and fall.” What is great about this new collection is that, despite its mix of bright colors, it does not come with an age limit. Many women tend to avoid the looking-like-a-bag-of-Skittles trend, afraid of coming across as inappropriate for their age group. Luckily, Hinda does not believe in limiting your style based on how old you are. “My line is targeting everyone who loves art, fashion, beauty, and everyone who enjoys life,” she said. “The collection is of course for women, but it’s for all the women out there – the young and the old. It’s for the passionate women.” Hinda was born in Tunisia, but grew up in France where she developed a passion for fashion. In 2001, she moved to Montreal where she earned a degree in fashion from the Montreal Academy of Design and Technology. In 2005 she launched her own line Symbiose by hinda A., a sleek collection for the modern woman. This year, Symbiose by hinda A. offered a collection that is vivid and modern, but still maintains the classic and sophisticated vibe that the designer’s fans are used to. As for those of you already speculating about Hinda’s next fashion project, the designer has only one thing to say:  “I have a little idea, but I can’t tell you much because it’s a surprise.” The entire collection is entirely made in Canada and will be exclusively available in September in the Symbiose by hinda A. store located on 227 St. Paul St. in Old Montreal.

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Going green with fur and leather

As I walked up the Arsenal stairs in my new black patent Mary Janes, I couldn’t help but smile at the overwhelming sound of heels clicking and cameras flashing. Montreal Fashion Week is a time where some of the country’s best designers and most fabulous

(Photo from RachelF.ca)

fashionistas sit under one brightly-lit roof in full fashionable force.

There was quite the lineup this year. From veterans such as Nadya Toto and Harricana by Mariouche, to newcomers like Pedram Karimi and Matière Noire, the designers left the city panting and wanting more. I sat down with Pénélope Plante, the publicist of designer Rachel Fortin of Rachel F., for an exclusive interview.

Fortin has created her line based on recycled fur and leather and vows that not a single new skin will ever be used while designing her cozy and urban accessories. Another positive aspect about recycling old fur coats is that each one is different in presentation and appearance, making each of Fortin’s pieces unique; there is no mass production.

Although her label was originally focused on recuperating old fur clothes into new garments and accessories, Fortin also felt compelled to experiment with leather. It is resistant enough to recycle and leather is much more versatile than fur allowing Fortin to be a little more creative in designing pieces from winter to summer.

Inspired by Montreal in the 1970s, the Fortin Fall/Winter 2013 collection involved fur, leather, fringes, tails and nubucks in beiges, browns, blacks, yellows and khakis.

“It all started with the ‘arrow sash’,” said Plante. “We took the traditional feeling of the design and incorporated the arrows, points and triangles into it.”

According to Plante, Fortin first realized that she wanted to be a fashion designer after coming to Montreal from Saguenay to study fashion at CEGEP Marie-Victorin. Upon graduation, Fortin accepted an internship in Denmark to specialize in the development and research of fur, an experience that had an influential impact on her earlier collections. Although she worked in Denmark, Paris has always been the city she dreamed of living in.

“For the moment, she’s in Japan and I think that is where we are going to keep her energy. The Japanese market is easier to penetrate than the Parisian one,” said Plante. “We would probably try New York before Paris, especially when it comes to fur.”

Although the label is based on recuperating and revamping old fur coats and leather goods, it’s not always easy for Fortin to convince anti-fur organizations to change their negative connotations of the brand.

“Some [groups] don’t even let us get to the point where we tell them that it’s recycled. People are just against fur in general, it doesn’t matter if it’s recycled or new, as soon as they hear fur they just aren’t interested,” said Plante. “We do have clients that are vegan and they don’t seem to mind because we really stress the fact that it is recycled.”

Whether you love wrapping yourself in mink or detest the idea of wearing animals, the idea of recycled fur and leather does bring up quite a debate.

To purchase pieces from the upcoming line, please visit the Rachel F. official website at: www.rachelf.ca/en/store/ or visit www.rachelf.ca/en/dealers/ for a list of the dealers.

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Nerdy never looked so chic

Rachel Sin showcases her Fall/Winter 2013 collection at the Arsenal art centre on Feb. 3, 2013, a collection she named “Geek Girl Gone Chic” (Photo Maddy Hajek)

There’s a certain dress code that needs to be respected during Montreal Fashion Week. Heels are a no-brainer essential for women; a quick change from boots to pumps by the coat check line is an easy fix when transitioning from the outdoor blizzard to an indoor cocktail. As for the perfect outfit that can transition from day at the office to front row on the runway, that’s a dilemma Rachel Sin understands all too well.

“As a working girl, you’re running from meeting to meeting and the last thing you need to worry about is your clothing,” said designer Rachel Sin. “At the same time, you want to look good and you don’t have time to change from one outfit to another. I think those are all things I think about and it’s from personal experience.”

It’s no coincidence that after only one season at Fashion Week last September, Sin was given the opportunity to showcase her new collection in the main room this year. Women across Canada have fallen in love with Sin’s designs because they are effortless and flattering. Her eponymous line is functional and chic, allowing women to transition from day at the office to dinner downtown. She designs for the “want-to-do-it-all woman” because she understands “that” woman; she is that woman.

Before plunging into the fashion world, Sin studied architecture and graduated from Carleton University with a Master’s degree. Although Sin has been in fashion since 2009, she cannot help but allow her architectural background influence her designs.

“A building has to be functional and at the same time, for me, clothing just really needs to be wearable in the sense of versatility. It will take you from day to night,” said Sin.

While in the past, Sin sought inspiration from the architectural world, this season she tapped into her quirky side and has given us a collection a little more fun. On Feb. 7, Sin showcased her fall/winter 2013 collection at the Arsenal art centre, a collection she named “Geek Girl Gone Chic”. Through her designs, Sin reaches out to other women like herself; the high school nerd who grows up to be a confident and successful woman.

With hair up in a loose bun, burgundy red lips and eyewear from Georges Laoun Opticians, Sin’s models strutted down the runway with full force and attitude. Along with the classic winter shades of black, white and khaki, Sin adds a pop of colour with a bright aqua, rich emerald and a vibrant poppy. In some of her designs, Sin balances the structured ponti stretch knit (a fabric favourite of the designer) with a “fun, whimsical” sheer, polka dot pattern.

While Sin did incorporate her signature feminine peplum shirts and form-fitting, knee-high dresses in the collection, she also includes beautifully tailored, tuxedo-inspired pant-suits with black or white stripes running along the side of the trousers.

My personal favourite was the trendy and very elegant cape blouse. “I call it the Boardroom Superhero look,” said Sin. “The working woman inspires me. I like to see women that are independent, strong and know what they want.”

What Sin wants is a challenge; to take on the United States in the hopes of acquiring space in department stores. There is no denying that Sin’s success stems from her understanding of what women need and are looking for when they browse through their walk-in.

To purchase Rachel Sin designs visit http://www.rachelsin.com/

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There’s nothing like Fashion Week in New York

Photo by writer.

For the second year in a row, I have been privileged with the opportunity to work backstage during New York Fashion Week, my most favourite time of year!

It is a biannual event where designers, models, celebrities, photographers, fashion reporters and bloggers travel from all over the world to share their love for fashion in the Big Apple. While Lincoln Center may be the mecca for Fashion Week, there are runways dispersed all over the city, giving me the opportunity to run around from one show to another from Midtown to the Meatpacking District.

Although the subway may have been the wisest way to travel, I can’t help but feel like I’m missing out on the architecture, the people, and the zealous vibe.

Here are a few of my favourites sights of the week!

Photo by writer

FASHION AND CELEBRITIES

For anyone who is a celebrity-sighting fanatic, Fashion Week is the best time to head to New York. From Hollywood celebs like Kim Kardashian and Kanye West, to Canadian fashionistas like Coco Rocha and Jay Manuel, the hotels are filled with international stars invited to view designers’ upcoming collections.

While getting on the list for fashion shows may not be such an easy task, the streets of New York can guarantee you front row seats on a bench with a view of the most inspiring outfits.

Fashion Week has this amazing influence to awaken your inner glam gal and strut on the sidewalk in your most painful Louboutin shoes. For seven days people put aside their inhibitions and whip out their wildest outfits they had reserved for this particular occasion. Whether you decide to pay homage to a designer or create your own Avatar outfit, anything goes during Fashion Week!

 

FOOD AND SHOPPING

No matter how busy people may be during Fashion Week attending shows, snapping photos, and putting in orders and making deadlines, locals and tourists always find the time to eat, drink, mingle, and enjoy the skyline.

Although I don’t think it’s a coincidence that there were no shows to attend on the Sunday morning, I was glad to have the time to enjoy the city view from the Brooklyn Flea. As much as I love boisterous Manhattan, there’s nothing like a few hours in Williamsburg to keep you grounded. Every Sunday, local vendors set themselves along the water, offering passersby delicious food, vintage wear, handmade accessories, antiques, books, music albums, and anything else you had in mind. While shuffling through old memorabilia can be amusing,  I usually head straight for the Pueblan cemitas and Japanese tacos.

Once I’ve had my fill of Brooklyn and feel the desperate need for air conditioning, I hop on the subway and head straight to Bloomingdales, a place where credit cards are used and abused.  Summer sales were quickly replaced by collections of leather, fur and melancholic tones. Thankfully I had a couple of shows to head to and didn’t give VISA a chance to call me!

Although I may not have had time to fill my closet with the new fall collections, I did, however, manage to visit Mario Batali’s Eataly, a restaurant/supermarket stocked with Italian-only products and the best mozzarella I’ve had in America. The best way to keep the bill in the double digits is to grab some cheese, prosciutto, a fresh loaf of bread and head to Madison Park across the street for a picnic.

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Student Life

When fashion and architecture collide

Photo by Sophia Loffreda

Fashion Week in September always seems to hold an unsettling feeling that comes with the change in season. Just as we are about ready to embrace our felted fedoras and wool ponchos, fashion designers tease us with next year’s spring/summer collection of bright colours and fresh fabrics.

With this seasonal change in fashion trends comes the wardrobe revamp — a process that could be both time-consuming and dizzying. Thankfully, there are designers who believe practicality does not have to suffer at the hands of style.

Toronto-based designer Rachel Sin understands this need for comfort and versatility all too well. Her eponymous clothing line is designed for the “want-to-do-it-all woman” — a woman in need of key pieces that will not only help her transition from one season to another, but more importantly, from work to cocktail hour.

Devoted to the vision of a confident and feminine woman, Sin’s spring/summer 2013 collection is flirty, sophisticated and tailored to a woman’s curves. She showcased her collection on Sept. 7 at the new home of Montreal Fashion Week, the industrial-chic Arsenal art centre.

Aside from seasonal body-hugging dresses that are naturally alluring, Sin has taken the pantsuit and pencil skirt and added a touch of flare that will surely make heads turn.

With the leading ladies of Mad Men in mind, Sin had her models dressed in ’50s-inspired style, strutting on the catwalk to Nancy Sinatra’s “These Boots are Made for Walking.”

While looking to trends from past decades is common among designers, Sin goes beyond fashion and taps into her architectural training, giving her a unique edge in the fashion world. With a Master’s degree in architecture from Carleton University, Sin searches for inspiration from eye-catching and elegantly designed architectural spaces.

“Careful attention to detail and precise tailoring comes from the natural tendency in architecture to make all things better with good design,” said Sin. “If architecture must always be functional, then fashion should be wearable.”

Sin spent her university years studying and interning as an architect by day and taking sewing classes by night. While fashion design was always a career she wanted to pursue, she did not think studying fashion was necessary. Sin gives credit to her architectural training and keen eye to detail for her success in fashion design.

“As an architect, you learn to open your eyes and pay attention to everyday details,” she said.

Photo by Sophia Loffreda

For her spring/summer collection, Sin was inspired by the iconic Farnsworth House designed by one of her favourite architects, Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. Built in the late ’40s, the house was ahead of its time, uncluttered and framed with glass and industrial steel. The idea was to allow the viewer to experience self-exposure to the outside natural world all the while feeling a sense of comfort and protection from the glass structure.

Sin translates the translucence and simplicity of the Farnsworth House with the use of soft and transparent fabric such as lace and jersey. Imagining what a woman would wear in such a modern space, Sin uses clean lines and neutral shades to complement the minimalist expression of the house.

While the colour palette of the collection may be simple with beige, black, grey and the occasional pop of coral, Sin’s attention to detail comes through the lace cropped tops, the ladder-back dresses and the Peter Pan collars.

Though balancing architecture by day and fashion by night can be time-consuming and hard work, Sin is a “want-to-do-it-all woman.”

“As a designer, you definitely have to be passionate about what you do because it is one of the toughest jobs,” said Sin. “I made the decision to become a designer, to create beautiful and well-designed objects, whether it be a building or clothing.”

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