Tag: fashion

The halcyon days of 2014

All over social media, people are reminiscing over their former Tumblr kid selves

Imagine you’re mindlessly scrolling through Twitter, as we all seem to be doing more and more these days, passively reading through job announcements, middling “hot takes” and COVID-19 stats. Suddenly a post comes up that stops you in your tracks and drags you right back into your adolescence with a wave of nostalgia. Scrolling through the replies, you see that the aesthetics, music and products from your teen years are all coming back into style. You’re only 21.

Recently, a lot of people all over the internet have been reliving a certain 2011–2015 subculture that revolved specifically around the website Tumblr. This burst of nostalgia came fast and hard, but it hasn’t even been that long since us “Zillennials” were spending our days scrolling down our dashboards. So, why now?

If you didn’t have the (dis)pleasure of living your early teens predominantly online, I can try my best to explain the early 2010s Tumblr aesthetic, often dubbed “soft grunge.” While the look had little in common with the 90s subculture it got its name from, other than the mere existence of flannel shirts, it could be seen as the product of the 20-year cycle of fashion. In the 2010s, elder millennials were nostalgic for their youth in the 1990s, and that nostalgia trickled into the style and media of the day.

Now, feed that through the hyper-visual medium of Tumblr and you’ve got yourself countless images of teens in jelly sandals, ripped tights under denim shorts and choker necklaces posing with polaroid cameras, holding up records, or, most commonly, smoking cigarettes.

On the music front, in 2014, I, like my fellow Tumblr teens, was listening to Lana Del Rey, Arctic Monkeys, The 1975, and Grimes, because the songs on your iPod Touch were integral to the maintenance of the aesthetic.

In terms of 2010s fashion, this aesthetic was far from the worst thing in memory. Yet, that alone can’t explain its resurgence in recent months. We’re nowhere near the 20-year nostalgia cycle yet, so there must be something special about that time, or our current time, that holds special significance.

For a lot of Zillennials, Tumblr wasn’t just an aesthetic, it was a formative part of their adolescence. While any media you consume on a regular basis through your tween and teen years is likely to shape you in some way, Tumblr was uniquely good at fostering a community environment. Being more of a microblogging site than a traditional social media, users were encouraged to publish long posts and personalize their blog’s design. This affordance, mixed with the fairly low median age of users, and possibility for anonymity, led to users sharing a lot more personal information than they would on other platforms.

While it wasn’t always perfect (I’m looking at you, #thinspo), overall, this caused Tumblr to become a safe space for many young people in the early 2010s.

As one Concordia student describes, “All the fangirling, aesthetic stock images and memes were incredibly private. Your Tumblr was definitely not something you shared with anyone.” She continued, “Yet, there was strangely a big sense of community.”

Community-making on sites like Tumblr can be invaluable in helping young people through their search for identity. And this is double fold for youth who are already marginalized.

As Stefanie Duguay, assistant professor of Communications at Concordia explained to The CBC about LGBTQ youth Tumblr use, “They share GIFs and videos and content around queer celebrities, queer characters, and fanfiction,” Duguay explained. “It’s a general part of people’s self discovery, especially when you’re a young person and you’re determining things about yourself and your sexual identity.” For many, 2010s Tumblr text posts were their first introduction into important conversations of politics and identity.

Lisi Schauer, a fourth-year student at the University of Southern California puts it as such: “I think it struck the perfect balance of ‘cringy’ fandom stuff and people starting to use aesthetic as an adjective and just enough political text posts sneaking in to be really influential for people our age.”

Now that we are all so disconnected through COVID-19 isolation, it only makes sense that many of us would yearn for an adolescent time where everything felt new and important. As everyday feels mundane and predictable, it can be fun to engage in a bit of escapism in the aesthetic of who you used to be, before the world delved into chaos.

Additionally, many young adults have had to move back home, so if you’re constantly being reminded of your former self, why not lean into it?

While it may be jarring to see the rose-coloured glasses come out so soon, there’s really no harm in taking a stroll down those dashboard memories and into your younger self. We all need whatever bit of respite we can get from the current world. If what gets you through it is blasting Passion Pit and digging out your old Brandy Melville clothing, far be it from me to tell you to stop. At least it keeps people indoors.

 

Photo collage by Kit Mergaert

How to be a bimbo in 2021

A group of TikTok creators are embracing hyperfemininity while rejecting internalized misogyny and the male gaze

In recent years, words like “bitch” and “slut” have undergone a transformation. “Bimbo” used to be a misogynistic insult, connoting an attractive but unintelligent woman. But now it is the latest word in “girl world” to go from demeaning to empowering. On TikTok, bimbos are trending. This proud new breed has embraced the identity of a new-age bimbo while sporting a pink Y2K aesthetic, worshipping icons Dolly Parton and Anna Nicole Smith, and preaching leftist values.

“A neo-bimbo unironically loves hyper-feminine fashion, jewelry and aesthetics in the face of a patriarchal institution that would deem them frivolous,” explains Bunny, who goes by the handle @bunnythebimbo. She has gained a following by making videos where she teaches classes on what she has coined as “bimbology.” Having recently graduated with a Women and Gender Studies degree from Chatham University, she loves to analyze what being a new-age bimbo means from a theoretical perspective. In one post on her Tiktok, she says bimbos take their femininity to the extreme as a way of making fun of how men perceive them in this patriarchal society. “But also we’re taking part and pleasure in it so it’s once again ours,” she points out.

Twenty-three-year-old Tennessean Hannah Foran, a.k.a. @parishiltonslefttitty, enjoys being able to dress for the male gaze, even if she’s subverting it. Ever since she was little, she’s admired the Y2K aesthetic. Known for her platinum blonde hair, plump lips, Juicy Couture, and cleavage, she says, “To me, being a new-age bimbo means you’re flipping the ‘male gaze’ on itself. You are becoming the very thing that men fear; a promiscuous, very attractive woman who plays dumb but is actually very smart once she reveals all her cards.”

New Yorker Meredith Suzuki (@maeultra) recently started to embrace being a goth-bimbo, a type of bimbo who has a darker aesthetic than the stereotypical pink.

“We are hot bitches who choose to be dumb, not just because some annoying idiot man made them like that,” she says in one clip on her TikTok. The 24-year-old believes the pandemic and capitalism pushed her towards bimboism. She became increasingly frustrated with how much more mental and emotional labour women have to do.“I wanted to break away from all that,” she says. One day she woke up and decided that she just wanted to be hot instead.

Perhaps the most successful bimbo on TikTok, Chrissy Chlapecka, 20, has attracted more than two million followers to her account, @chrissychlapecka. In a recent video, she frolics through the streets of a wintery Chicago in a thin coat unzipped to show off a pink fluffy bra. “Sweetheart, this is a sign to wear whatever the hell you want,” she tells her audience. “I don’t care if it’s snowing! Winter is a concept!” Her account is filled with videos where she’s either screaming at viewers to stop being sad over some mediocre boy, making fun of Trump supporters, or discussing how bad she is at math. Chlapecka famously finishes each of her captions to her videos with “#ihatecapitalism.”

Fifty-one-year-old Ginger Willson Pate, @glitterparis, is one of the older bimbos on the app. Her favourite part of being a bimbo is how often she’s underestimated because of her looks. She claims it has worked to her advantage in her life. Along with her daily TikTok videos, she’s a real estate agent in Silicon Valley and has a business with her partner of flipping and selling houses.

“That’s been a really lucrative career for me,” she points out, “so I’m not as stupid as I look.”

To Pate, being a bimbo means she doesn’t have to be ashamed of being ultra-girly and materialistic. “I’ve actually been put down for that by men that I’ve dated,” she says. But she’s happy the way she is. “I’m not gonna tone it down for some guy’s opinion of me,” she explains.

In the past, Concordia Journalism and Creative Writing student Nadia Trudel has struggled with letting herself care about her appearance, while simultaneously wanting to be an intelligent young woman.

“I think seeing these TikToks has encouraged me to be more unapologetically confident and take pride in my appearance without feeling shallow,” she says. Being smart and caring about your appearance had always seemed like two incompatible concepts. She’d been taught to value being smart and dislike girls who cared about their appearance. But now, she recognizes that belief system to be internalized misogyny.

Emma Amar, a Concordia Software Engineering student, categorizes the bimbo movement as a feminist movement. She believes that modern day feminism typically rejects stereotypically feminine things. As Gen Z, we are the daughters of the mothers who wouldn’t let us play with Barbies.

“Publicly deciding to embrace those qualities and still be a feminist, or still be politically informed, is really powerful because it shows that the way you look does not automatically decide how smart or informed you are,” explains Amar.

“Do you support all women regardless of their job title and if they have plastic surgery or body modifications?” Syrena (@fauxrich) asks in a TikTok video about the requirements to be a bimbo. While Syrena has not gotten any work done yet, the 22-year-old is currently studying to become a cosmetic injector.

Foran, @parishiltonslefttitty, openly admits that she had her breasts done in exchange for spanking a sugar daddy with a paddle in a leopard thong. She has blackmailed sugar daddies that were married in order to get free Botox and lip filler. “I want my nose done next,” she adds.

Ultimately, bimbos have created a safe and inclusive space on the internet where one can be themselves without judgement.

“She’s actually a radical leftist who is pro sex work, pro Black Lives Matter, pro LGBTQ+, pro choice,” Chlapecka explains in a TikTok video about the role of the bimbo, ”and will always be there for her girls, gays and theys.” While Chlapecka has progressive values, she still, as a blonde thin white woman, perfectly fits the original bimbo aesthetic from a decade ago from reality tv shows such as The Simple Life and The Girls Next Door.

Despite the progressive message of bimbo TikTok, Amar doesn’t believe that the community is sufficiently diverse. She has mostly come across white women on bimbo Tiktok.

“But I think that has a lot to do with TikTok’s algorithm,” she says. Bunny, who is a self-proclaimed fat white woman bimbo, says she’d also like to see more accounts uplifting POC and fat creators. “I think that creating your own aesthetic despite restrictions that say that you cannot be a part of it is something that can be really powerful,” Bunny explains about her own journey of embracing the bimbo aesthetic as a fat woman.

“The definition has expanded to become much more inclusive of all genders, races, body types, sexual orientations and aesthetics,” says Suzuki. In 2021, bimbo no longer just describes ditzy white blonde girls with big boobs. If that were the case, Suzuki wouldn’t be here. She’s proud of how far Gen Z bimbos have come when it comes to inclusivity and diversity. “But this is really only the beginning.”

Many bimbo creators have gotten comments from their followers claiming they want to be a bimbo but they don’t have big boobs or they don’t have the right sort of clothes. “A neo-bimbo needs to be hot, but that is not deemed by patriarchal beauty standards,” explains Bunny, “but rather by an unapologetic confidence that radiates from within.” Bunny strongly believes that anyone can be a bimbo.

Both Amar and Trudel say that since starting to watch bimbo TikToks, they have gained confidence. “It’s okay to just be like ‘I’m sexy, I’m hot,’’ Trudel says. “And it can be fully serious, or it can be kind of ironic.” To her, it seems like there’s an almost fake it till you make it quality to gaining confidence as a bimbo. “If you start acting like you are sexy and calling yourself sexy, maybe you’ll start to actually feel that way,” she explains.

Amar sometimes gets nervous about dressing in revealing clothes out of fear that others will judge her and think she looks slutty. Seeing bimbo creators dress unapologetically in hyperfeminine or hypersexual outfits has helped her become more comfortable. “It reminds me it’s okay to express myself in whatever way I want to,” she says.

While on the exterior, the bimbo movement on TikTok might seem like simply a pink aesthetic and pretty girls, it’s so much more. Syrena states that being a bimbo, at the end of the day, is a lifestyle grounded in kindness. “Loving yourself and refraining from judging others too quickly,” says Syrena, “That is the most important part of being a bimbo.”

 

Graphic by @the.beta.lab

Categories
Arts

No Diploma: from a brand to a community

A brand that promotes following one’s own path

You may recall seeing a sticker of the brand on a street light, or their logo on someone’s T-shirt. Either way, No Diploma stays with people.

Montreal-based streetwear brand No Diploma was created three years ago by Benoît Brûlé. Originally from Ottawa, Brûlé enrolled at LaSalle College in 2013 where he studied Fashion Design. While participating in various internships, Brûlé discovered that his learning was more fulfilling when working with brands than it was in class.

“Every project [in school] was by the book, whereas I was more interested in creating my own projects with my own expectations,” said Brûlé.

After two years of being enrolled in fashion school, Brûlé went on a solo trip to Asia during the summer break to look for inspiration. The trip made him regain confidence as he was confused regarding what to pursue within his professional life.

“Traveling alone helped me connect with myself and my interests,” he said.

After his trip, he returned to Montreal with no diploma, leaving fashion school after two years, wondering what to do next.

Brûlé applied for internships and quit after two weeks to work with one of his favorite brands. While working for the brand for two years, he had the opportunity to understand the work behind a brand and how it is built. Brûlé even got to attend fashion week in Toronto.

“These brands were my school,” he said. “The people with whom I worked were like my teachers.”

While working as an intern, Brûlé created his own clothes on the side as a way to explore his own storytelling. Similarly to music, where a person gets to tell a story through a song, clothes are like different canvases where people can express themselves with various patterns and fabrics.

“No Diploma” are two words that resonated with Brûlé. He remembers printing the words on a T-shirt, which made him feel like he was wearing a superhero cape.

“There is a bad perception of people not having a diploma,” said Brûlé. “Those words were used against me and were once an insecurity of mine until I gave them a new meaning.”

He started wearing the shirt he had printed which sparked conversations with strangers, who would share their own stories about not having a diploma but who nonetheless achieved dreams such as owning businesses and building brands.

Brûlé made a few “No Diploma” T-shirts and hoodies and gave them to family and friends. Brûlé sold his made t-shirts to customers. Brûlé once met a guy at a coffee shop to whom he was going to give a T-shirt that he made. The person turned out to be a manager at a store where Brûlé used to work.

“I sold the T-shirt, I got back into my car and for me, that moment was a sign that I had to start my own thing. Beyond a t-shirt, this could be a brand,” said Brûlé.

The concept behind No Diploma is inspired by school — it’s been three years since the brand started, therefore, the brand is in its third semester.

“No Diploma was also inspired by me spending time in coffee shops and seeing people repping their university sweaters and college attire with so much pride, I wanted to create merchandise for an “academy” where everyone is accepted,” he said.

With No Diploma, Brûlé was able to build a community worldwide: people from Europe to New Zealand have reached out to the brand. People who support the brand and follow it are known to be classmates as they have become part of the brand’s family.

No Diploma has done a few fundraising projects, such as creating Photos for Australia to help the Australia Bushfires that occurred in January. The brand also raised over five hundred dollars for Black Lives Matter, donating the money to organizations such as Hoodstock Montreal and Nia Centre for the Arts, a Toronto-based arts centre that promotes arts from across the African diaspora.

Photo concepts and videos are shot to show the street wear for the online store and social media. For the last three years, there have been No Diploma pop-up shops around the city. In April, Brûlé was preparing for a pop-up show in Atlanta which was canceled due to the pandemic. Another one, which was also cancelled, was supposed to take place during the summer in New York.

Instead, Brûlé and his team organized a new podcast called “Class Discussions,” where they talked with artists from around the world during quarantine. Guests have included artist collective KidSuper from Brooklyn and Australian entrepreneur Yasmin Suteja.

“Whether it’s a career with no diploma or a career with a diploma, the important lesson here is to follow your path and staying true to yourself,” said Brûlé.

You can take a look at their shop here and listen to their podcast here.

 

Photo courtesy of Ana Lucia Londono Flores.

Categories
Student Life

Why is everyone wearing that?

Graphic by Sasha Axenova

There you are, standing at Berri-UQAM station surrounded by a sea of The North Face puffer jackets: black, red, cobalt blue, bright yellow, purple. They’re everywhere, with people’s tiny heads poking out from a mass of down-filled, quilted, nylon jackets. Why? 

Typing “why does everyone wear…” into the Google search bar will yield a variety of laughable results: Blundstones, The North Face and jeans are among the first few. These fashion items may seem average right now, but in 10 years or so they will be a thing of the past—matching American Apparel disco pants and scrunchies… anyone?

But this isn’t anything new; it’s just how trends work. Trends have been around for hundreds of years and are studied across numerous fields including sociology, art history and psychology. The people waiting in line in their puffer jackets may appear to be a flock of sheep now, but really, they are a marker of a generation and an indication of current socio-political, cultural and economical stressors. Let’s break this down.

Many factors contribute to the growth of a trend, and it is not only celebrities and red-carpet styles. In fact, there is a lot more that goes into it than you may think. Estimated at a value of USD $1.3 trillion in 2015, the global apparel market consists of a plethora of players including suppliers, manufacturers and designers. Other than these, entire enterprises like WGSN are devoted to analyzing and forecasting trends years in advance. Meaning, the predictions for this season (Spring/Summer 2020) were probably getting finalized around this time four years ago, in 2016.

Some trends last a couple of months while others last years. This is called the “life cycle” of a trend. Trend-cycles—or product life cycles—are used in many industries to represent frequency fluctuations over time. In this case, the beginning of the cycle, or “introduction,” might be a group of attendees at Pride wearing rainbow-striped platform shoes. In the “growth” stage, this will have caught the eye of a celebrity, Janelle Monáe for example, who will wear a striped Pride gown at the 2018 BET Awards, in addition to a few other avant-garde individuals. 

By now, rainbow coloured and patterned items have reached the “maturity” stage of the life-cycle and can be seen everywhere, from Susan Alexandra accessories, which has had a big Instagram moment in the past year, to The Last Line, who have become known for their colourful, timeless and affordable jewelry designs.

When the item begins its “decline” in popularity, it is no longer seen as being trendy but is not yet rendered obsolete. Think UGGs, for example. While they are no longer a “big deal,” you still see them around every now and again. A product that has passed the “decline” stage is no longer trendy and very difficult to come by, like elbow-length gloves.

But just how do these items get trendy?

The Business of Fashion and management consulting firm McKinsey & Company’s The State of Fashion 2020 report, titled Navigating Uncertainty, analyzes themes in the current fashion economy, in addition to explaining the industry’s driving factors. Among them are cross-border challenges as international competitors grow, sustainability via the exploration of alternative materials, and social responsibility in regards to inclusivity and diversity. These shifts are likely to impact consumer trends within the fiscal year.

While that Patagonia half-zip you’ve been seeing everywhere is cute, it is not a trend solely because of its looks. In a time of ecological crisis, sustainability and social responsibility have become an increasing focus for consumers. Thus, it is no surprise that environmentally and socially-conscious brands are gaining momentum. Trends are a response to our environment and a means of expressing how we feel.

As our generation acquires more purchasing power, an increasing amount of outdoor brands will outgrow traditional brands. The rising popularity of The North Face and the resurgence of L.L. Bean are not coincidental. Brands like Carhartt that were once reserved for construction-wear, have now made it onto the runway, through collaborations with brands like A.P.C. 

Athletic and outdoor recreation brands, like Outdoor Voices, have gained popularity as experiencing and spending time in nature become increasingly covetable activities. Wellness and experience are of great value to Millennials and Gen Z. Utilitarian items like fanny packs, trench coats and sneakers from brands like Patagonia will continue to gain momentum among consumers with an increased interest in functional design and in reducing their ecological footprint.

A variety of books, articles and academic journals are devoted to studying the life-cycle of trends and their history. This piece in no way conveys the magnitude of what they can show or how they come to be. But maybe, next time you put on those sneakers or feel the urge to buy that hoodie you’re seeing everywhere, you’ll take a moment to think about why it might be so popular. Take a second to reflect on why you might be seeing outdoor and camp-inspired garments everywhere—you’d be surprised at what you might come up with.

 

Graphic by Sasha Axenova

Categories
Student Life

Jad does things! Wearing all black

Graphic by @sundaeghost

Hi! I’m Jad Abukasm, News Editor at The Concordian, and in this segment, Kayla runs my life!

[Upbeat music]

Kayla did not tell me why I was supposed to wear all black until the very last day of the challenge.

“It’s an experiment. I want to see something,” she texted me.

“So, I’m your guinea pig?” I replied.

“Basically.”

I think that from now on, Kayla won’t hesitate to try weird stuff on me and I’m kind of questioning why I got involved in this…

I own a total of two black shirts and one pair of black jeans. Do the math and you quickly realize that 1) I will be wearing the same jeans all week, and 2) that I quickly need to find three shirts or else I will end up smelling like my running shoes. My dad was kind enough to lend me two of his shirts—that, by the way, look bomb on me—resulting in re-wearing the same shirt only once. At least I have a bunch of black socks and a new pair of black Vans.

During the week, I tried finding out why the hell Kayla would ask me to do this. I went online and discovered some not-so-reliable scientific websites that mentioned people wearing black either experienced high levels of anxiety and sadness or that they have mysterious and “sexy” personalities (whatever that means). Am I surprised? Yes. Am I more so confused? Yes.

During the week, I noticed that I got a lot of compliments on my outfits and people told me I looked on top of my sh*t. I was only wearing a black shirt tucked into black pants—but I didn’t complain **insert sassy emoji.**

Friday comes and Kayla texts me “I wanted to know if wearing all black would affect your mood, especially with the socks because I know you use those as a form of self-expression,” and this was when everything started to make sense. I realized that throughout the week, I was feeling so much more confident and less self-conscious, to Kayla’s surprise. I think that I used to try matching my personality to my outfits which would only result in me stressing about what others thought about my appearance. Wearing all black in contrast to my vibrant personality really made for an interesting duality.

Now, the big question: will I keep doing this? Obviously, wearing all black every day was fun and empowering, but I also own three times as many other clothes that I love. However, what I really learned here is that clothes don’t define who you are and you shouldn’t use them as self-expression if it is a source of stress. From now on, I will think less about matching my clothes to my character and just be myself. And yes, I did go to Marshalls and Winners on Friday to buy more black shirts.

Graphic by @sundaeghost

Categories
Student Life

Let’s get smarter about shopping

Photo by Brittany Clarke / Graphic by @sundaeghost

As we’ve been told time and time again, the best way to shop sustainably and ethically is to shop at your local thrift or consignment stores. While it would be ideal for everyone to consume in this way, it isn’t always realistic, especially if your style is more in line with current designs and styles in fashion.

But, there is a way to be more eco-conscious, even if thrift store styles aren’t for you.

Shop the conscious lines retail companies have to offer

The environmental crisis caused by fast fashion is hardly avoidable at this point. This is why many popular retailers have created permanent lines in their seasonal collections that use sustainable materials and practices when producing clothes. Despite Zara being one of the many fast fashion brands with damaging practices that cause massive impacts on the environment, it has taken a small step in the right direction with the launch of their Join Life initiative in late 2016, that aims to create “contemporary designs made from sustainable materials.”

As explained in a Who What Wear article, at the forefront of Zara’s priorities is ensuring that they make as little an impact on the environment as possible. This is achieved through the use of “sustainable cotton, forest-friendly alternatives, and recycled fibres and recycled polyester” as well as working on a plan to have all of their distribution centres, offices, and stores running on clean energy by 2025.

Look at materials

As we all know, the environment that garments are created in, as well as the process used to create them, are important variables when it comes to determining whether or not they are environmentally conscious items. However, one very crucial element that most don’t think to consider is the fabrics they are made with. There are certain fabrics that are extremely damaging to the environment and require many resources to produce.

Which fabrics are these, exactly? According to another Who What Wear article, conventional cotton uses up extremely large amounts of water and pesticides to grow, which end up trickling into waterways, causing pollution. You should also avoid polyester and nylon, which are made using fossil fuels, as well as conventional viscose which requires many chemicals to break down.

Instead, opt for organic cotton, which has an all-around lower environmental impact from the time it is grown, processed and dyed. Linen is a great option, as it does not require pesticides to continue its growth, and can be easily integrated to create fabric blends. When it comes to warmer fabrics, wool would be your best bet, as it is often sourced from the animal in a highly ethical way. Another eco-conscious fabric is bamboo which, according to a document by Telio.com, “is one of nature’s most sustainable resources.”

When buying from fast fashion brands, shop consciously

If you absolutely cannot abstain from buying from fast fashion brands, at the very least, make sure to shop smartly when you do. In order to avoid over-buying from these brands, make sure you’re knowledgeable about your style and your closet.

Firstly, know the general gist of your style and, through this, determine if you envision yourself reverting to a specific piece over and over again for years to come. By knowing your personal style, you’ll avoid those trendy or impulse purchases that will end up in your donation pile before the year is through. If you haven’t yet nailed your personal style, instead of buying different pieces that will potentially end up going to waste, look to inspiration websites like Pinterest so you can visually discern what you like.

Another way to avoid frequent purchasing from fast fashion websites or stores is to create a capsule wardrobe—a streamlined selection of clothes that can be combined to create multiple outfit combinations. This way, you always have the basics you need and, if you feel like you’re missing something, you know exactly what that piece is.

So, the next time you let yourself off the hook for not being more environmentally conscious when purchasing from fast fashion brands, think twice and consider these tips.

Photo by Britanny Clarke, Graphic by Kayla-Marie Turriciano

Categories
Student Life

The evolution of style happens when we grow

Graphic by @sundaeghost

Fashion does evolve, but within our own individuality. Some of us may even take some inspiration from our younger selves, and style what used to be trendy with our current style. Of course, some things are better left behind like the sneaker wedge, or even tiny sunglasses. We can easily make an item trendy or newly fashionable again.

This happened to the choker. Although what’s ‘in’ at the moment is the chain choker—like the ones Billie Eilish wears—the choker, a slim strip worn around the neck, was very popular during the grunge era of the 90s. It was able to stay for a while during the early 2000s and, somehow, it managed to return in 2015. But chokers existed long before the 21st century.

In a March 2016 article in the National Jeweler, Yvonne Markovitz, the Curator Emerita of Jewelry Museum of Fine Arts, explained that chokers were worn by women in ancient civilizations, such as Ancient Egypt and the Sumer Civilization in Mesopotamia. Chokers brought these women a sense of power and gave them a sense of security.

The Nike Air Force 1s that you see everywhere you go? This shoe staple was inspired by the original 1982 Nike Air Force 1, which was initially a basketball shoe. I myself have a pair and what’s great about these shoes is that they never go out of style and can be worn with everything. They still serve a classic look.

These items have found a way to blend in today’s society. We tend to look at past trends to get inspired. These old trends evolve with the style that we have been able to create and with the person we have become.

It may take some time to find our personal style, but I think that I’m at a stage in life where I believe I have found mine. As a child, I remember wearing sneakers with everything, even when it didn’t fit with my dresses. I would wear my soccer team’s jerseys at school with earrings and bracelets. When I was a teenager, I would wear my father’s dress shirts with short shorts, which made it look like I was wearing a dress. I felt like menswear was more appealing to me, and I managed to look feminine by adding accessories, such as golden bracelets. Today, I like to wear long high-waisted trousers or loose track pants with a T-shirt and a vest or blazer that matches in colour with my pants. My golden rings add elegance to my outfits. I never take my rings off now.

When you grow up, you meet new people, you listen to new music, you look up to different people, and that can influence your style. I used to look up to Twiggy—the top model from the 60s—so much that I chopped my hair like hers when I was 13. I decided to never do it again; I have wavy hair and I had to use gel so that my hair would stay straight. Today, my fashion icon is 90s Lauren Hutton. Just to give you an idea: long windbreaker coat with matching pants, a white T-shirt and a pair of sneakers.

I have evolved: I am inspired by runway looks from the late 90s to early 2000s. I always love to mix and not wear only one style. The only item that hasn’t changed is my shoewear—I wear sneakers with everything.

We have the power to make old fashion trends into new ones and combine them with our individuality. Therefore, no trend is ever really lost, as someone will always manage to make it work.

 

Graphic by @sundaeghost

Categories
Student Life

The fashion chronicles

Do you have items in your closet that you almost never wear?

Maybe it’s a ratty old T-shirt from a highschool volleyball tournament that you don’t have the heart to get rid of. Maybe it’s a tight pair of shorts that you hope to fit into someday. Maybe your style has simply changed over time, and a few ghostly remnants of your old self are still clinging to the hangers.

Or maybe, if you’re like me, you’ve collected a handful of clothing items that look really cool, but you just don’t have the guts to wear.

My closet is full of these pieces — funky sweaters and jackets, novelty T-shirts, pants and dresses with bold hemlines, the list goes on. Usually, these clothes are purchased with specific outfits in mind — outfits that, if I’m being honest, will likely never come to fruition. These looks are meant to be worn by who I aspire to be, not by who I am now. In reality, they are probably destined for nothing more than collecting dust in the back of my closet. Tragic.

But Lilly, you might be thinking, if it bothers you so much, why don’t you just suck it up and wear the damn clothes? Who cares what people think! 

To that, I say: good point.

Last week, I vowed to bring some of these clothes out of hiding. I did so by wearing a variety of these aspirational outfits for three days in a row. Here’s how it went:

 

Day one 

The look:

-A pair of white, wide leg jeans with a cropped hem

-A large, cheetah-print sweater in black-and-white

-An oversized blue puffer jacket

-A black newsboy cap

-A pair of classic Doc Martens

On the spectrum of Bratz doll to early 20th century dock worker, my first outfit sits somewhere in the middle. That morning, after frantically cornering my roommate and demanding she give me her honest opinion, I was graciously informed that I looked like a character from Clueless. Whether she meant it as a compliment or not, this was an extremely reassuring thing to hear, as it was pretty much exactly what I was going for.

Mixing a loud colour with such a bold pattern was a little out of my comfort zone, and the addition of the hat and shoes certainly didn’t help tone things down. That being said, I really enjoyed how the whole look came together and I received quite a few compliments. The only thing missing was a shoulder bag with a tiny dog peeking out of it. Next time!

Day two 

The look:

-A pair of high-waisted, acid-wash jeans

-A fitted black turtleneck

-A huge faux-fur coat

-A black beanie

-A pair of brown Blundstones

I’ve always liked the look of mixing casual and formal items together, so I decided to pair this extravagant faux-fur coat with a laid back pair of jeans and a beanie. To me, this outfit looks like the aesthetic intersection of a fancy divorcee and her angsty teenage son, which, come to think of it, is exactly how I would describe my personality — how very fitting.

Wearing this outfit wasn’t nearly as nerve-wracking as wearing the first one, but I was still unsure as to whether I would be able to pull it off or not (jury’s still out, guys). Regardless, this look was the comfiest damn thing I wore all week, and it definitely kept me nice and warm.

Day three 

The look:

-An ankle-length, navy-blue a-line dress with a floral pattern

-A long, cream-coloured sherpa peacoat

-A sparkly gold scrunchie

-That same pair of classic Doc Martens

This dress let me live out my ultimate Little House on the Prairie fantasy and for that, I am eternally grateful. To keep the outfit looking a little more snazzy and a little less scullery maid, I decided to edge things up by adding the boots.

As someone who rarely wears dresses, I really felt at ease in this look and it has inspired me to seek out more, similar items. Above all, I’d say that this outfit was my favourite out of the three!

What began as a harrowing and anxiety-inducing endeavour ended up being a lot of fun, and I was surprised to see how much the whole experience boosted my confidence. While I don’t think I can sustain dressing this extra every single day, I’ll definitely be experimenting more with my wardrobe from here on out.

Photos by Laurence B.D.

Categories
Student Life

The best thrift stores in Montreal

Just over a year ago, I decided to stop buying fast fashion.

This decision stemmed from an unnerving experience opening a parcel from Urban Outfitters, wherein I found a hair — a human hair to be precise — on my (made in Bangladesh) denim skirt. The idea that this hair belonged to a factory worker, most probably underage, most definitely underpaid, was enough to make me pack up the skirt and send it back.

Since then, I have shopped exclusively from ethical and sustainable local, independent designers and transparent brands, as well as vintage and thrift shops. As a fashion school graduate and someone who works in the fashion industry, this proved to be a challenge in the beginning.

Where was I supposed to find something new, in good condition, hip, not-too-trendy, and that conveyed my personal style?

After a year’s worth of scouting my options in and around the city, I’ve compiled a repertoire of my go-to thrift shops in Montreal. Whether your budget is high or low, or if you are looking for something trendy, there is definitely something for everyone.

For a classic thrift experience, Fripe-Prix Renaissance Plateau (Mont-Royal Ave.) offers a great selection of items at a super reasonable price. There are racks on racks of clothing and accessories, as well as an extensive offering of books and vinyls, all in great condition.

L’Armée du Salut (Notre-Dame St. in Griffintown) has — in my opinion — the best selection of pants and denim. With over seven racks of bottoms alone, you can find anything from a pair of vintage Levi’s to a pair of corduroys, at prices typically ranging from $3 to $12.

If you have a slightly higher budget but still want the authentic “thrift” experience, there are tons of shops for you. The infamous Eva B on St-Laurent Blvd. remains more expensive than your average thrift store, with prices averaging $20. However, their exciting mish-mash of retro fabrics, prints, and patterns is sure to brighten your wardrobe.

For staple pieces, such as flannels and denim shirts, Hadio (Mont-Royal Ave.) is the place to go. Their prices are more expensive than your average thrift store, but with shirts lining every inch of the wall, you are sure to find a quality vintage item in brand new condition.

For some funky finds, The Little Shop in Parc-Ex is a great spot to hit up. With a much more eclectic feel, you can find a variety of vintage hats, fur coats, and party dresses. If you’re into more of a street style look, L N F Shop on Parc Ave. offers a mix of old and new, from vintage Nike to some more recent pieces from brands like Atelier New Regime.

Many thrift shops offer more of a boutique-style experience in Montreal. The only downside is that with a more curated selection comes a more elevated pricetag, and thus, not necessarily a classic thrift experience.

However, for those trying to stop supporting fast-fashion, shops such as Annex Vintage on St-Viateur St. offers curated pieces that often hit the racks in collections, and provide a variety of trendy clothing in brand new condition, with a price that remains lower than that of fast-fashion giants such as Zara and H&M. From week to week, you can find the store filled with anything from denim or velvet items, to retro winter puffer jackets.

Similarly, Ex-Voto on St-Laurent Blvd. in Little Italy offers a smaller, well-curated variety of clothing. They also have a wide selection of locally made goods, jewelry, and accessories, making it the perfect place to shop for gifts.

If you’re looking for unique pieces, Citizen Vintage is the place for you. Their two locations, in the Plateau and in Mile End, offer vintage items which have been altered and repaired, having them looking brand new. In addition, they have an in-house collection, Studio Citizen, consisting of clothing that has been made by hand in Montreal, from fabric scraps and deadstock fabric, ensuring that nothing goes to waste.

With three locations spread out across Mile End and Little Italy, Empire Exchange offers a great selection. I’ve found my fair share of designer items at the various Empire Exchange locations — a Burberry polo and Saint Laurent denim shorts, among others — making it a great place to keep an eye on and peruse the racks every now and then. Who knows what you’ll find?

Whether you’re contributing to a circular cycle in an effort to be more sustainable, making a conscious effort to not support companies who exploit their workers, or trying to stick within a budget, thrifting is a feel-good pastime that is sure to bring out your personality and satisfy your need for shopping.

Photos by Brittany Romeo-Clarke

Categories
Student Life

Here are some of The Concordian staff’s favourite fashion staples

Photos by Laurence BD

As my fashion sense has evolved, so too have my fashion staples.

When I was nine, my go-to look was a Paul Frank T-shirt and a thick purple headband. In junior high, it was UGG boots and leggings. By high school, my typical outfit had shifted to an oversized flannel and shaved head. So, it’s safe to say I was pretty consistent throughout.

When it comes to my current signature look, I typically gravitate towards cropped jeans with white, vintage-inspired sneakers. I love cropped pants because they instantly make a basic outfit look a little more chic and effortless, ya know? I feel the same way about my Reebok Club C 1985 sneakers — I wear these bad boys with everything, from wrap dresses to cargo pants.

As of right now, I’m pretty content with my style. Then again, I was content in highschool too, when I looked like that mutant spider-baby from Toy Story, so I suppose my wardrobe is always going to be subject to change. That’s the fun in fashion, right?

I asked my friends at The Concordian what they consider to be their fashion staples, and their answers both surprised and delighted me. Here’s what they had to say:

 

Katelyn Thomas, Editor-in-Chief 

Dr. Martens — Chelsea Boots

“My vegan docs are my fashion staple because of their versatility. They can be worn with pretty much anything, they’re SUPER comfy once you break them in (RIP to your feet before that), and they don’t get ruined in the winter because they aren’t made of leather, so the salt doesn’t eat away at them. One quick wipe and they look as good as new, despite the fact that I bought them about five years ago.”

 

Matthew Coyte, Managing Editor 

Northern Souvenirs — Flannel

“For me, it’s just something warm to wear during these hella long winters, and it’s easy to match it with whatever else I’m wearing. In my first year, I got chirped a lot by my friends for wearing it. Now that I’m in my fourth year, they tell me that it’s basically a part of my personality, so I don’t think I can ever stop wearing it now.”

 

Alex Hutchins, Creative Director 

Brand Unknown — Socks

“Matching my socks to my outfit makes me feel complete, kinda like that cute lil’ cherry on top. Whether I look like a moderate bum or literal death reincarnated, if my socks match, I feel pretty damn good. I don’t go for particular brands, just designs that stand out; cacti, Batman, red roses, pot leaves, rainbow stripes, toe-socks, everything! Even if my socks are a boring, neutral tone, they’ll still match an accent piece of my outfit.”

 

Jad Abukasm, News Editor 

Simons — Turtleneck

“I just love turtlenecks and always wear them. Quality turtlenecks feel like a warm hug!”

 

Kayla-Marie Turriciano, Life Editor

Etnia Barcelona — Glasses

“I’ve only had three pairs of glasses since I realized I needed them like seven years ago. Each time I would spend a long time choosing them because I didn’t want them to be boring, you know? They really had to fit my personality. I got this pair when I started university, and they’re actually sunglasses. It took me over a year to find them because they had to be perfect. And here I am, three years later, and I love them and I feel like they really complete me.”

 

Chloë Lalonde, Arts Editor/Production Assistant 

Brand Unknown — Pouch

“After some thought, I think my favourite ‘fashion item’ is a good ol’ pouch. I have many! I like to switch them up depending on their size or what I’m doing. I also have designated pouches for many things — a drawing/pencil case pouch, an everyday pouch… What I love about a pouch is that you can be a bag lady in the day, but by night for vernissages and other art stuff I so often attend — voila! A chic clutch!”

 

Matthew Ohayon, Sports Editor 

Ray-Ban — Glasses

“I’ve always been told by my friends that I’ve been ‘blessed with bad vision,’ which is them saying nicely I’m ugly without glasses and frankly, I agree. I’ve been wearing glasses since I was in grade three but only got to pick out a pair for myself in grade nine — before it was my mom picking them out for me. Now, I’m obsessed with glasses and buy a couple of pairs a year.”

 

Youmna El Halabi, Opinions Editor

Calvin Klein — Leather jacket

“I’ve always been fascinated with the Joan Jett, rock’n’roll style, ever since I was 15. So at first, I was copying a certain style I loved, but now it feels like a necessity in any type of outfit I wear, like my outfit is incomplete unless I top it off with a leather jacket, ‘cause it kind of sets a ‘Youmna’ mood.”

 

Callie Giaconne, Assistant Opinions Editor

Blundstones — Boots

“When I wake up on a dark cold winter morning, finish my coffee and head for the door, my dirty, ugly, stained Blundstones bring me comfort and security. They aren’t cute, they aren’t that stylish — but you literally will not see me trudging through the ice and snow in anything else.”

 

Laurence Brisson Dubreuil, Photo Editor

Members Only — Bomber Jacket

“I love how easy it is to pair this bomber jacket with everything — it’s a lot more versatile than what you’d expect it to be. The bomber style makes it casual enough to wear with jeans and a simple tee. Meanwhile, the shimmer gives it a somewhat chic look that can easily be matched with a blouse and a cropped flare pant. Overall, it’s just a really comfy and interesting piece!”

Photos by Laurence BD

Categories
Arts

Fashion and Inspiration: A glimpse at designer Jean-Claude Poitras’ creative musings

New exhibition at the McCord Museum guides the viewer through a designer’s creative process

“Behind each and every item there is a story to tell,” said Jean-Claude Poitras as he entered the Jean-Claude Poitras: Fashion and Inspiration exhibition at the McCord Museum, on Oct. 22. 

The exhibition, a product of Poitras’ life and work, brings the viewer inside the mind of the Montreal-born fashion designer and tells the story of his life through his creations.

It features over 140 pieces, accompanied by the designer’s sketches. Rather than being displayed in the chronological order of their concept, the garments are displayed in three sections; Childhood Memories, Muses and the Cinema, and Around the World – each marking a significant source of inspiration in Poitras’ life.

Each of the three rooms features a cubicle, the walls lined with screens wherein the viewer can enter and sit to enjoy a variety of video clips so as to put themselves inside the mind of the designer. This idea is meant to allow the viewer to experience the full fruition of the garments, from a plan to sketches, fabric samples, the photographic process and ultimately, the piece itself.

The simple silhouettes of the clothing contrast against vibrant prints, textures and fabrics; demonstrative of how garments that are reminiscent of the period in which they were created can still have their own personality.

[Through the exhibition] I discovered things that I did not suspect in my fashion,” said Poitras, speaking of inspiration drawn from cinema and attending church as a child; his silhouettes were greatly evocative of old Hollywood glamour and outfits traditionally worn to Sunday mass.

Rich and opulent tones fill this part of the show; every mannequin features items made of sheepskin, deep jewel tones and long coats constructed of heavy fabrics.

A collection of delicate, sheer blouses hang within a transparent box at the center of the room. Their wispiness makes them appear as though they are floating in the wind. Poitras described the garments as resembling kites or mobiles.

La mode, c’est du cinema,” said Poitras, who later described fashion as a passageway; falling hand-in-hand with love, cinema and humour – his main sources of inspiration.

Images of models wearing the clothes accompany the collection. In one series of photos, numerous models are featured wearing the same item in a different way.

“Show me the possibilities that clothes can have,” said Poitras. He added that his aim was to create items that were personalizable, a desire that originated from his boredom of the monotonous repetition of outfits from the 70s.

Orange is the colour of life, we bite into an orange,” said Poitras.

A bright tangerine colour was chosen for the walls of the Around the World section of the exhibition, which displays numerous designs inspired by his travels in Europe, North Africa and Southeast Asia, where he sourced the majority of his fabrics.

Poitras noted the significance of Japanese culture in his work, where he drew inspiration from the search of the essential and purity, as well as a passion for material and texture.

One wall is lined with wide silhouettes featuring interesting details such as asymmetrical sashes. He noted how they share similar qualities to garments produced by renowned designers Issey Miyake, Comme des Garçons, and Yohji Yamamoto, all of which are known for their attention to detail, use of organic lines and suppleness.

Another wall, inspired by his travels in Italy, features structured dresses in pastel tones or the colour of sorbet, as Poitras described them.

While this portion of Jean-Claude Poitras: Fashion and Inspiration is dedicated to Poitras’ travels, it is impossible to neglect the intermingling of inspiration stemming from retro cinema and the silhouettes reminiscent of those from his childhood.

Thanks to you, I am remembered while I live,” said Poitras.

The show, which guides the viewer through Poitras’ life and work through his depiction of a personal and collective history, marks the importance of the designer as a key figure in Montreal’s creative industry.

“Today, I am completely reassured,” said Poitras, speaking of his work as a designer. “This is not my job, it is my life.”

Jean-Claude Poitras: Fashion and Inspiration is on display at the McCord Museum, at 690 Sherbrooke St. W., until Apr. 26. The museum is open Tuesday, Thursday and Friday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Wednesday from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Categories
Student Life

Fast fashion is slowing down

Photo by Brittany Clarke / Graphic by @sundaeghost

We’ve all been there: your favourite celebrity wears a designer item worth more than your rent. You fawn over it and think “why aren’t I rich?” Then, as if meant to be, you see it at Zara. It’s there, it’s beautiful, it’s… $19.99? But what’s the true cost?

Fast fashion giant Forever 21 filed for bankruptcy on Sept. 30. At its peak, the company had USD$5.8 billion in revenue, according to Business Insider. What does this mean for the future of the retail industry? Does the end of Forever 21’s reign signify a new beginning?

But first, what is fast fashion, why is it problematic and why is it increasingly becoming the topic of conversation?

Fast fashion is cheap and trendy clothing produced in as quickly as two weeks – think H&M, Zara and Urban Outfitters. While they make it easy to be fashionable, fast fashion suppliers come with their own set of problems. After oil, fashion is the second most polluting industry. According to online resale marketplace thredUP’s 2019 Resale Report, 108 million tons of non-renewable resources are used every year to produce clothing.

Consumers no longer buy with the intent to keep; an increasing desire to be constantly seen in new styles is shortening the garment life cycle. Because of this, the equivalent of one garbage truck is landfilled every second.

With the ridiculously low prices comes an ethical dilemma. As per Fashion Revolution, Human rights abuse is a prominent issue: unsafe working conditions, child labour, and exploitation contribute to why garments can be purchased at such low costs. According to thredUP, 59 per cent of consumers expect retailers to create products ethically and sustainably.  

Fashion Revolution is a global movement aiming to unite people and organizations to change how clothes are consumed and produced. Their goal is to achieve an environmentally conscious and ethical industry. Through their #whomademyclothes movement, they strive to encourage brands to disclose where their garments are produced and who exactly is making them. The point is to show that most fast fashion brands cannot name where their products are being made because they don’t know. Fashion Revolution hopes to push brands to be more transparent, accountable and honest about their practices.

Fashion Revolution releases a yearly Fashion Transparency Index listing data from the top 200 global fashion brands regarding how much they disclose about their business. A higher score means a more transparent brand in regards to where their garments are made, their ecological footprint, social responsibility, gender equality and payment of living wages.

Working in the fashion industry, I think about this often, and it’s something I’ve struggled with. Keeping up with trends is part of my job and marketing those trends is my job. Balancing this alongside my desire to be as sustainable, eco-conscious and ethical as possible has proven to be a dilemma. Or rather, it was a dilemma. 

Finding sustainable alternatives is no longer a concern. There is an abundance of secondhand shops – curated and thrift – in Montreal. There’s a Salvation Army on Notre-Dame St. W., in downtown Montreal, with over seven racks of exclusively denim items. For a more curated selection, there are three Empire Exchange locations in Mile End, where I’ve found my fair share of designer items (Yves Saint Laurent denim shorts, anyone?).

When following trends, I felt blocked. My closet was full, yet I always seemed to have nothing to wear. I easily got bored and resorted to buying more and more. Not to mention, there was the constant guilt of not knowing who was making my clothes, but knowing they couldn’t afford decent living conditions. Having studied the supply chain in fashion school, I felt in part responsible; I had all this knowledge about fast fashion’s ramifications and wasn’t doing anything about it.

I have not stepped foot in a fast fashion retail store in over a year, and it feels like a step in the right direction. Shopping exclusively vintage, thrifting, buying goods made in Canada and supporting local designers feels incredibly rewarding. My closet may not be overflowing, but I’ve developed a distinct personal style. Adopting a sustainable lifestyle forces you to get creative, upcycle, and do-it-yourself. Not to mention, it significantly reduces your carbon footprint. 

So, where is fashion headed? Forever 21’s bankruptcy wasn’t a fluke. It’s the result of changing consumer tastes and a growing resale industry. According to thredUP’s 2019 Resale Report, resale has grown 21 times faster than the retail market in the past three years. The secondhand market is expected to reach USD$68 billion by 2024, and to grow 1.5 times the size of the fast fashion industry by 2028.

“The fashion of the future is not about the pretty little things, the shoes and the handbag and new party dress,” wrote Carry Somers, founder of Fashion Revolution, in the 2019 Transparency Index. “It is about weaving truth and value into our clothing. We love fashion. We love beautiful clothes. But there is no beauty without truth and there is no truth without transparency.”

You can read Fashion Revolution’s Transparency Index and find out more about the #whomademyclothes campaign at https://www.fashionrevolution.org/.

 

Photo by Brittany Clarke / Graphic by @sundaeghost

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