Episode 13: In which the weather is cold and the wine is hot
Sadly, I missed out on going to Igloofest (which gives me all the more reason to come back to Montreal, right?). So when Nuit Blanche came around I made sure to go. It was an event where, yet again, I witnessed Montrealers’ innate ability to turn such brutally inhospitable weather into a party.
I went to the Quartier des Spectacles first on Thursday for the Festival Montreal en Lumières and then on Saturday for Nuit Blanche. There were pulsing neon lights, a giant stage with a band, campfires, countless food kiosks, theme park rides and igloo-shaped transparent tents that housed mini bars or restaurants. The moment that I arrived and saw the spectacular scene my inner tourist came out as I jumped with cringe-worthy awe and joy. Delirious with excitement and mind-numbed from the cold, I exclaimed “I wish I lived here!” My friend had to remind me that I did, in fact, live here.
Like many of my other night time outings in Montreal, these two were filled with gluttony. The culprits were two melted chocolate-dripping waffles; a cheese platter complemented by two glasses of warmed wine; a hollowed baguette filled with fondue cheese; and a Swiss sausage on a stick (fire-cooked). Maple and bacon pretzels were also on the cards, as well as a hot chocolate with rum. However, reality set in when my stomach reminded me that I wasn’t a growing six-foot teenage boy.
My favourite treat by far was the maple syrup tire. So simple: throw some maple syrup on the ice, chuck a stick in it, wait a little, and voila, you’ve got toffee-esque joy on a stick. Before arriving in Canada, I was one of those health freak weirdos who equated sugar with the devil. But Montreal, you’ve made me a changed woman.
On Thursday I rode the ferris wheel with my two acrophobic friends who had a splendid time. On Saturday we danced to electro music amongst hundreds of people. Aside from the fact that I am almost less than five foot tall and couldn’t see, I had a lot of fun. It got better when my friend offered me a shoulder ride. I would have loved to go on the zipline but it somehow just never happened. Probably because by 2 a.m. the novelty of the wintery weather was wearing off. Instead, we opted for salsa dancing in the Musee de l’art contemporain, where a DJ duo played upbeat Latin-inspired tunes in front of projected footage of what appeared to be Hawaii. For those short, glorious moments I remembered the one thing I’ve begun to miss most—the beach.
Nuit Blanche was a blast. On Sunday my hair smelt like campfire and chocolate and was knotted with frozen maple syrup. Nuit Blanche reminded me of camping, but a hyped-up version minus the kind of weather that is conducive to staying outdoors for long periods of time.
Montrealers, how do you do it? Long ago, people told me that I was crazy to stay here for the winter. While I may be half frozen (with two more months to endure), Montreal, your charms continue to warm my heart. Oh, and thanks for making a sentimental tourist out of me.